Fool's Gold Route

Event: Fool's Gold Route Hike
Date: Aug 19, 2003
Duration: 6 Days (estimated)
Distance: 31 Miles (estimated)
Directions: See maps below
Parking: None required
Required Equipment: Wilderness hammock, compass, topographical and trail maps, altimeter, 10 essentials of trekking, food for at least a week, non-cotton clothing, blister-proof footwear

I will have a GPS unit and a satellite phone for emergency evacuations, should the need arise. We can also use the satellite phone to call for pickup wherever we are (as well as a pre-planned pickup should the phone fail).

The Plan

Start

We get someone to drop us off near or at the end of the Mamquam Forest Service Road. I have scouted the drop-off point on June 26, 2003 and a 2 wheel drive will be able to make it close to the trailhead quite easily. There is many shallow potholes along the Forest Service Road, but no major obstacles.

Follow Highway 99 towards Squamish. Turn east onto the Mamquam River logging road, which leaves the highway directly opposite the logging yard, immediately south of the Stawamus River bridge, 2.1 km (1.3 mi) north of Shannon Falls Provincial Park, or 2.0 km (1.2 mi) south of the main traffic light at the Squamish turnoff.

The following road distances are measured from Highway 99, so zero your odometer there. Follow the main road, crossing the Stawamus River and ignoring minor spur roads. Keep left at 3.7 km (2.3 mi) and again at 6.8 km (4.2 mi). Follow the main road, which traverses the mountainside above the Mamquam River canyon; ignore the right-hand road at 9.5 km (5.9 mi).

At 12.7 km (7.9 mi), turn left, crossing the Mamquam River and bearing right over Skookum Creek. Keep right at 13.0 km (8.1 mi), right again at 19.8 km (12.3 mi), and then left at the 'Y' junction at 21.2 km (13.2 mi). Follow the main road along the valley bottom. Turn left onto road M-29 at 26.2 km (16.3 mi), and keep left again as this road switchbacks steeply up the mountainside. Depending on road conditions, some cars may have problems with traction or water bars (ditches across the road) here. At 29.1 km (18.1 mi), follow the right for,, which traverses the slope high above the upper Mamquam River. Again, water bars or rough spots may cause difficulties for cars here. The road crosses a large clear-cut and turns into a side valley. Park near the bridge at 32.8 km (20.4 mi) or at the 'T' junction in the clear cut just beyond.

Trailhead

At the end of the Mamquam Forest Service Road (See Map) we will be dropped off and we will have to locate the trailhead and begin the hike. Should we have to abort the hike we will get picked up here, hopefully by the same person dropping us off.

Investigation Notes:

If you've made it to November Cr., then you are almost there. Cross the large broken log over the creek and continue up and take the left fork. Go about 100 yards and look up to your left at the treeline. When I was there 2 years ago I found a couple of pieces of pink tape at the treeline and had to bushwhack up to it, but after that I found the trail to be in great shape and wasn't grown over considering the lack of use the trail receives. There are some areas where the ropes remain to assist you up, although not needed.

Mamquam Pass

Hopefully we will be able to follow surveying flagging through Mamquam Pass (Elevation 1360 Meters) and drop down to Scary Crossing Grove, where there is a campsite. Should we not be able to achieve the campsite at Scary Crossing Grove the first night, it highly recommended that we bring wilderness hammocks (available at MEC) to avoid the necessity of locating a suitably flat area for setting up tents. Flat tenting areas are most likely in short supply in this "neck of the woods". All that is needed for hammocks is two trees the right distance apart.

Boise Creek

We will follow Boise Creek down to Cedar Spirit Grove, where there is a campsite. From this point we can elect to hike the Boise Creek Trail to the Boise Creek Main Line Logging Road and make our way to the North End Dock, at the north end of Pitt Lake, where we can arrange transportation back to civilization. A Cessna 185 (3 persons plus 150 lbs. of gear) on floats from here to Vancouver Harbour is $410, a larger aircraft (Beaver) is $492. Otherwise we can continue on up the Bull Canyon.

Bull Canyon

Heading up the Bull Canyon (Elevation 680 Meters), through Bull Pass (Elevation 1060 Meters) will lead us to DeBeck Creek, past the creek leading to Consolation Lakes and to the Mid Valley Camp.

Disc Creek Canyon

Past the Disc Creek Canyon (Elevation 480 Meters) and Spindle Lake Creek (suspected site of Lost Gold Mine) will lead us close to the shore of Pitt Lake. There is an un-named campsite here. At this point we could use the satellite phone to call for air transportation to take us back to civilization. Otherwise we can continue on to Pitt Pass.

Pitt Pass

Leaving DeBeck Creek and through the Pitt Pass (Elevation 720 Meters) will take us to the Widgeon Valley Camp, at the end of the disused logging road.

Widgeon Lake Trail

After leaving the Widgeon Valley Camp we can make our way along the disused logging road, past the bridge that is washed out and follow the trail along Widgeon Creek to the Widgeon Lake Recreation Site, where there is a campsite, possibly with comforts!

End

Get picked up at the end of Quarry Road near Port Coquitlam!

Harbour Air (Cristy): 604-233-3513

Ayla Canoe Sales & Rentals: 604-941-2822

Pitt River Lodge: 1-800-665-6206

The Backroad Mapbook, Volume 1, Southwestern BC, describes the Fools Gold Route:

Heavy lobbying for conservation of the extensive untouched forest to the west of Pitt Lake resulted in the creation of the Pinecone Burke Provincial Park. Within the park is the rugged and difficult to follow Fool's Gold Route. The route runs some 50 km (7 days) from the Widgeon Lake Trail all the way to the Mamquam River Forest Service Road.

The Widgeon Lake Trail is accessed by canoe to the Widgeon Lake Recreational Site. From there, the route follows an old road and trail, which are well maintained by the Burke Mountain Naturalists. As the route departs the Widgeon Lake Trail, you will have to cross the creek and head in a northern direction towards Pitt Pass. From here on, the route involves a lot of bushwhacking. After reaching the pass at 720 meters, the route descends into the DeBeck Creek drainage, which offers some of the best, untouched sub-alpine forests around.

Throughout the valley, the trail leads through some extremely rough sections where you will wonder if there even is a trail. Eventually you will pass through Bull Pass at 1060 meters on your way to the Cedar Spirit Grove, a stand of 1000 year old cedar. Then, the route leads to the west and becomes easier to follow as it is marked with pink flagging. The trail culminates on a spur road off the Mamquam River Forest Service Road. This route is an excellent choice if you desire a challenging, remote wilderness experience. It is best left to experienced backpackers equipped with compasses, topographic maps and mountaineering knowledge.

Hiking the Ancient Forests of British Columbia and Washington describes the route from the end of the Mamquam River Forest Service Road to Pitt Lake.

The Actual Hike

Fools Gold Stone from Boise Creek

We prepared to leave on August 19, 2003 and were delayed from the afternoon to the evening and then finally ended up leaving at 4:00 am on August 20, 2003. Participants were Gerry (organizer), John and Janna.

After driving to the Mamquam Forest Service Road turnoff just past The Chief near Squamish we headed up the potholed logging road in the early morning dawn. Many thanks to Janna's husband Curt for getting up so early before work and driving us!

Eventually the car could go no further due to road deactivation ditching and we unloaded and geared up. We headed up a spur road according to the driving directions we got from various sources. About an hour later we reached the end of the spur road after guessing at a couple of minor junctions. When we checked our position with the GPS we determined that we were actually at the end of the road that leads to the Pinecone Lake Ridge Route.

Click Image to Enlarge

Pinecone Lake Ridge Route.

Rather than retreating down the road and loosing all of the altitude that we had gained we decided to bushwhack to the proper trailhead from a location up the Pinecone Lake Ridge Route. Some of this improvised route was following the flagged trail but as we neared the first summit we had to contour the South and then descend through dense forest where we could see below us a slash. Eventually we popped out of the dense forest into the slash and made our way to the accompanying logging road. We had arrived at the "tee" junction described to me by a guy that had day hiked the start of the Fools Gold Route a year earlier. He described a large piece of abandoned logging machinery that we would have had to take a left at to arrive at the destroyed logging road bridge just before the "tee" junction.

Overall I would estimate that by taking the wrong road after getting dropped off cost us a couple of hours. It was here that the first blisters appeared on John's feet. His extensive use of all forms of cotton clothing did not help.

Click Image to Enlarge

"Tee" Junction.

After resting momentarily at the "tee" junction we followed the email clues provided by previous hikers of the Fools Gold Route. Information provided by Frank was particularly helpful at this point. His description was to take the left branch of the "tee" junction, walk about 50 feet and then head straight up the hill in the slash to the treeline where some flagging could be found. No flagging was visible to us from the "tee" junction. The "tee" junction was about 100 feet past the destroyed logging bridge. The left-hand branch of the "tee" junction was heavily deactivated with ditching, burnt logs and debris.

Click Image to Enlarge

Fools Gold Route Trailhead Sign.

About 50 feet up the hill in the slash we spotted the Boise Creek West Trailhead sign. It was very uplifting. Just beyond the sign, uphill in the slash, the washout that we were following split to the left and right. I followed the left split and John and Janna followed the right split. It turned out that the right split was the one to follow and they discovered the flagging of the trail at the treeline.

Click Image to Enlarge

Fools Gold Route West Trailhead Slash.

Looking uphill from the "tee" junction can be seen a small rock outcropping (cliffs). Stay to the right of the cliffs and the flagging on the treeline can be found. The flagged trail at this point is relatively easy to follow and a beaten path on the ground can be recognized in most spots.

Click Image to Enlarge

Fools Gold Route.

As we approached Hopeful Meadows we encountered this reassuring sign pointing the way uphill. Although gaining about 1500 feet of elevation to the summit at Hopeful Meadows and Mamquam Pass, this was the easy part!

Click Image to Enlarge

Hopeful Meadows.

Hiking trails don't get any sweeter than this! No underbrush, grassy meadow with no mud. We could see one set of boot prints heading in the opposite direction that appeared to be several days old at least.

Click Image to Enlarge

Wetfoot Crossing.

After reaching the summit in Hopeful Meadows and contouring to Mamquam Pass, we headed down the heavily spider webbed route towards Scary Crossing. I got numerous large spiders in the face as I was "on point" for much of this leg. As we hiked this part of the route we would loose the flagging occasionally and had to look around for it. Otherwise it was easy to follow with its flagging and small square orange aluminium markers nailed to trees intermittently. At the bottom of the hill we could hear Boise Creek and took the branch of the trail to Wetfoot Crossing rather than Scary Crossing. It was here that I found a paper map on the ground outlining the route from here to the West trailhead. We never did see the 3 logs over the Boise Creek gulley that made the improvised bridge of Scary Crossing.

Click Image to Enlarge

Scary Crossing.

I was able to jump from rock to rock across Wet Foot Crossing without my pack. Janna courageously carried all of our packs across in very tough bare feet. John also crossed in bare feet.

Click Image to Enlarge

Camp One.

We looked around for the alleged campsite on the South side of Boise Creek at Scary Crossing and Wetfoot Crossing. We did not find it and pushed on downstream. Darkness was approaching fast and we decided to make camp on a small flat area about 50 feet from Boise Creek. Janna set up her homemade custom tarp tent. John and I set up our Hennesy Hammocks. We decided to forgo cooking due to exhaustion and opt for an early night and a hot breakfast instead.

Click Image to Enlarge

Boldering to Avoid Slide Alder.

In the morning we pushed on with the Cedar Spirit Grove as our next objective. If we arrived there early in the day we would push on towards Bull Pass. The trail (route) along this leg was sometimes looking like a well used established trail, only to disappear into oblivion and devil's clubs and windfalls soon after. We had to cross at least 3 slide areas. The one pictured above was easy due to the exposed rock.

Click Image to Enlarge

Boldering to Avoid Slide Alder.

Click Image to Enlarge

First Aid.

Halfway across the boldering we found small rock piles marking the route. We added a rock or two in order to build them up. Janna pinched her finger, producing a nasty cut, and we had to stop and break out the first aid kit.

Click Image to Enlarge

Mineral Claim Post.

Halfway to the Cedar Spirit Grove we found this old mineral claim post laying on the ground.

Click Image to Enlarge

Boise Creek Trail?

The image above is typical of the leg of the Fools Gold Route that stretches from Scary Crossing to the Cedar Spirit Grove. Occasionally for 100 feet or so the trail would be well marked and a beaten path to walk on. Then it would completely disappear into devil's clubs, underbrush and windfalls only to emerge again further ahead.

Click Image to Enlarge

Fools Gold Route Trail Improvements.

Once in a while, we could spot improvements made to the trail by the 1992 Western Canada Wilderness Committee such as this wooden ladder. We also could see rudimentary stairs crumbling away and the odd knotted rope hanging in particularly steep spots.

Click Image to Enlarge

Cedar Spirit Grove.

At about 4:00 pm on the second day we arrived at the Cedar Sprit Grove. We could tell we were nearing this area as the valley branches at this point. As we hiked we spotted the sign you see in the picture above lying on the ground covered by branches and moss. We propped it up, leaning it against 2 1000 year old cedars. After a bit of discussion about John's state of exhaustion, blistered feet and scratched arms and legs we decided to push on up the Bull Valley on the upper part of the Cedar Spirit Grove Loop trail.

The trail vanished within minutes and we were confronted with virgin forest with thick underbrush and numerous large windfalls. Johns' rate of travel slowed to less than half a kilometer per hour, we estimated. In less than an hour we halted and explored our options. John's progress was too slow.

Option One:
Escort John to the nearest logging road (at least 5 hours), send him towards the Pitt River Lodge or North Pitt Lake dock and return here to continue on without him.

Option Two:
Escort John all the way to the dock and return here to continue on.

Option Three:
Janna would abandon the Fools Gold Route attempt and go with John back to civilization and I would continue on solo.

Option Four:
We would all abort the hike and turn back to Cabin Crossing and head to Pitt Lake dock and call a float plane.

We opted for option four.

Click Image to Enlarge

We Turned Around Here.

Back past the Cedar Spirit Grove we went and were able to location the approximate location of the Cabin Crossing across Boise Creek by examining land features. We verified this by GPS. We made it to a point 100 meters downstream from Cabin Crossing according to the GPS. I was able to cross Boise Creek on a log and John and Janna forded it with shoes on. We camped on the North side of Boise Creek on a gravel bar. We played cribbage that night after eating a hot meal made with our methyl hydrate pop can stoves. Very efficient and very lightweight camp stoves with no moving parts, o-rings or valves.

Click Image to Enlarge

Old Mining Road.

In the morning we packed up after a hot meal and headed up a very steep and brushy hill to were we thought the trail was along the side hill towards Pitt Lake. After about 100 meters Janna spotted a road! Not the best road but a road nevertheless! Our rate of travel greatly increased.

Click Image to Enlarge

Old Mining Road, Old Logging Road Junction.

After about an hour the old mining road led to an old logging road were we saw this wooden tripod. Our rate of travel increased again. Throughout the hike we worked on John's feet with Moleskin and Duct Tape. I let him use my Body Glide to prevent his feet from softening from moisture. Neither Janna or I suffered any foot discomfort. Janna wore leather hiking boots with a 2 sock system. I used MonTrail trail running shoes with a single thin sock system, backed up with Body Glide when required. I also brought with me SealSkinz waterproof breathable socks but did not use them.

Click Image to Enlarge

Boise Creek Mainline.

Eventually we arrived at the Boise Creek Mainline logging road were there was evidence of fairly recent helicopter logging. Once again our rate of travel increased. Heat and thirst now became a factor as we were our in the full force of the hot sun of one of the hottest and driest summers on record.

Click Image to Enlarge

Bull Canyon.

From the logging roads we could see the Cedar Sprit Grove and the Bull Canyon that we would have been bushwhacking up if we had not had to abort the hike. It looked like a few kilometers of heavy forest before reaching the alpine open areas with talus and meadows.

Click Image to Enlarge

Severe Bush Scratching.

A word to the unprepared, poorly equipped and the unskilled: the Fools Gold Route will win. You will loose. Big time. Lots of pain.

Long sleeves and long pants are in order. Remember; cotton kills. Cotton clothing, including socks, holds moisture and acts as an abrasive creating extremely painful chaffing and blisters. What could be a pleasurable stroll through some of the last sub-alpine virgin forests near Vancouver can be quickly transformed into a horrific torture test where you scream with every step.

Click Image to Enlarge

Rest break on the mining road.

Clean drinking water was plentiful as were the various types of berries at this time of year.

Epilogue:

Soon we reached the Pitt River Forest Service Road. As we crossed the amazingly blue-green waters of the Pitt River we could see a group of people frolicking on a distant gravel bar.

Click Image to Enlarge

Pitt River.

We continued towards the North End Dock and before long a pickup approached. We hitchhiked to the North End Dock.

Click Image to Enlarge

Gerry and John on the Pitt River bridge.

Click Image to Enlarge

North End Dock.

Click Image to Enlarge

Beer-Swilling Pickup-Truck Boating Boys.

The friendly people gave us a ride in a very powerful and fast jet boat to a small luxury cabin filled bay between Cocus Point and Deer Point. The friendly natives fed us beer, pop and hospitality.

Click Image to Enlarge

DeBeck Creek.

They told us a story that some fishermen, about a week previous, were scared silly by a Sasquatch up DeBeck Creek somewhere. Also they said that they still encounter, from time to time, people searching for the Lost Gold Mine.

Soon Bill and Scott gave us a ride the rest of the way to Grant Narrows Pass at the South end of Pitt Lake. Bill trailered his boat and we got a ride with him in his gigantic pickup to Pitt Meadows. From there Scott gave us a ride in his snow mobile carrying monster pickup to Coquitlam Center Mall. Janna went her own way to her grandmother's from here. John and I took a taxi to downtown Vancouver and home, arriving at about 5:30 pm on the third day.

We lucked out on the rides in the pickups and boats. There was almost no waiting anywhere along the way back home. The logistics were flawless. Ahh... a sweet hot shower and a soft warm bed.

Next Attempt:

As soon as possible. Who will join me? gerry@darkglobe.net

Also considering cutting the trail out with machetes, chainsaws and brush cutters.

Fool's Gold Route Description - Click Image to Enlarge

Fool's Gold Route description by Joe Foy.

Fool's Gold Route Description - Click Image to Enlarge

Fool's Gold Route description by Joe Foy.

Fool's Gold Route Description - Click Image to Enlarge

Fool's Gold Route description by Joe Foy.

Topographical Approach Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows logging roads leading to the Fools Gold Route
trailhead.

Fools Gold Trailhead Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows Fool's Gold Trailhead.

Fools Gold Route Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows entire Fools Gold Route.
Fools Gold Route Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map of Squamish end of Fool's Gold Route.
Fools Gold Route Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows Cedar Spirit Grove to DeBeck Pass.
North Western Section Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows the North Western portion of Fools Gold Route.
Central Section Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows central section of Fools Gold Route.
Southern Section Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows Southern section of Fools Gold Route.
Fools Gold Route Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows Boise Creek section of route.
Topographical Northern Section - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows North Western portion of Fools Gold Route.
Topographical Central Section - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows central portion of Fools Gold Route.
Topographical Southern Section - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows Southern portion of Fools Gold Route.
Topographical Southern Section - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows Southern portion of Fools Gold Route.
Topographical Southern Section - Click Map to Enlarge

Map shows Burke Mountain trails.
Road Map - Click Map to Enlarge

We will be arriving at the end of Quarry Road

Road Map - Click Map to Enlarge

Map showing street names.

Other interesting reading about the area:

http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1234
Forum that discusses the Fools Gold Route.
http://www.bc-alter.net/dfriesen/nicholson.htm
Story and history of the Lost Creek Mine.
http://www.bc-alter.net/dfriesen/mineintro.html
Four chapters of a book about the Lost Mine.
http://globalairphotos.com/pitt_lake/pittlake2000/
Arial photographs of Pitt Lake, Black Tusk and more.
http://rwnicholson.tripod.com/rwnicholsonampassociates/id6.html
History of the Gold of Pitt Lake.
http://www.globalairphotos.com/genealogy_old/waite/
06waite_donald_e_05slumach/index.html
History and story of the Lost Gold Mine of Pitt Lake
http://www.hancockhouse.org/products/curgol_pics.htm
Pictures from a book about the Lost Gold Mine of Pitt Lake.
http://www.goldledge.com/discussion/old_messages/0000008a.htm
Another forum about the Gold of Pitt Lake.
http://www.kvbrakemen.com/climbaboard2.htm
An mp3 of The Ballad of Volcanic Brown.
http://www.pittriverlodge.com/index.html
Some history of the area and the gold provided by the Pitt River Lodge.

Thanks to Daryl Friesen of Spindle Explorations for this map.

One interesting thing about your route is it goes by a location of an old ice cave. It probably isn't there any more, global warming and all. If you were coming from the Quarry Road direction and you took the fork to the Widgeon Valley Camp, the cave was past the wash out and to the east. There is a mountain to the east with a shear rock exposed face. At the bottom was a ravine. The best we could determine was that the snow avalanched off the rock face and into the ravine and created the ice cave. You could walk in along way until it was hard to see. Open holes along the edge of the ravine let it light so you hike in to the end of the cave. A fellow on the crew studied air photo maps of the area and that is how he discovered the cave. He also lead us to wooden roads constructed of cedar planks elevated off the ground which were used to haul out cedar shakes cut at the top of a mountain at the turn of the century. (to the east of Quarry Road near the lower Rec site)